It's a bit more challenging than you might think travelling the fine fine wine regions of Europe in search of exquisite wines. I'm not saying it's not enjoyable but the pressure is on to find and meet lots of top quality makers, identify the very best and forge a business relationship - all in a short space of time. As with most things in life it seems easy when it goes well.
Burgundy is one of the most famous wine regions in the world and it produces fabulous wines - both red (pinot noir) and white (chardonnay). The problem with famous wine regions is the prices. The Cote D'Or occupies the top end of Burgundy both in geography and prices. This is home to the likes of Meursault, Chassagne Montrachet, Nuit St Georges, Corton Charlemagne etc - wines beyond most people's price range. At the southern end lies the Cote Maconnais - much more affordable wines such as Macon Villages that you will find in most supermarkets.
However, it's the middle bit that interests me most, and this is where I began my search for a supplier for Hedonist Wines. The Cote Chalonnaise is probably the least well known part of Burgundy but produces excellent wines that mimic the style and quality of its illustrious neighbours to the north without the crazy prices. It also benefits from a higher concentration of 'grower-producer' winemakers - those who grow their own grapes and make their own wine (the majority of Burgundian wines are made by co-operatives who buy in the grapes and then blend, label and bottle the wines under their own name).
The Cote Chalonnaise is beautifully rural. Rolling hills, ancient woodlands, fields full of stocky white cows, and of course vineyards. I made an appointment to see Vincent and Sylvie Joussier at their Domaine de L'Eveche and things looked promising from the moment I arrived. A working winery with a picturesque walled vineyard rolling away from the front of the property, which I discovered is used exclusively for their Clos de L'Eveche red.
After introductions (including Trek the dog) we ducked under the stone staircase to the tasting room. Without reading too much into it - when a tasting room is a lesson in elegant rustic chic it conveys a good message about the aesthetics of the winemaker. Vincent introduced me to his range of red and white wines and they seemed to perfectly embody the simple sophistication of single variety Burgundian wines. The pinot noirs were soft and perfumed with an intense clarity of fruit that is hard to find in other grapes. The whites with their orchard fruit freshness had an understated quality and charm.
It was time to call off the search, which was very good news because it was getting dark and I had already tasted over 50 wines in Burgundy.
I would thoroughly recommend a trip to Burgundy at any time of year. The main town is Beaune, where you can enjoy an excellent introduction to the region's wine at the Marche Aux Vins and not surprisingly you can eat and drink exceptionally well. My favourite restaurant is the Piqu' Boeuf where you will be packed in with hungry locals.
