When visiting wine regions I am frequently struck by the simple quality of the food that is served in the local restaurants. I guess it is no surprise that in a region inhabited by proud winemakers the restaurant owners demonstrate a similar passion for food. After all, the enjoyment of fine wine can only be enhanced by good food.
In the heart of wine regions the menus seem to defer to the wine lists, which is uncommon elsewhere. When the wine is centre stage this can lead to a pleasing simplicity of dishes that are designed to complement rather than dominate.
The trick, as always is to follow the locals. I find out where the winemakers eat and go there. Here is where I recommend you eat, should you find yourselves in Saint-Emilion in France:
L’Envers du Décor
Saint-Emilion produces world class wine and also happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage site. So it’s a pretty good place to visit if you like wine, and beautiful places. Set into the hillside overlooking the Dordogne floodplain the town is arranged over several tiers. Follow a series of stone steps up through the middle of the town and eventually you will arrive at the L’Envers du Décor restaurant.
It has an unassuming exterior, looking more like a bar. The inside is relaxed-cool with tables veneered with the sides of wooden wine boxes bearing the famous crests of the local chateaux. A narrow side alley leads to a beautiful walled courtyard where diners spill out on warm days.
I ate inside where the atmosphere was vibrant and pleasantly French. Fortunately I ordered before the rush – the restaurant soon filled up with large family groups, couples enjoying a romantic lunch, and winemakers talking business together.
The menu du jour is the most reasonably priced option and typically offers very traditional French dishes. If you are less adventurous the à la carte menu is varied enough to cover most tastes. I pondered a hearty sausage casserole before going for a safe steak frites. The food is very satisfying without being extravagant. The steak was faultless and cooked ‘à point’ (medium) although this always arrives slightly rarer than it would in the UK. Accompanied with a basket of delicious fresh bread, a lightly dressed green salad and a huge wooden handled steak knife I had everything I needed (I had already ordered a large glass of nicely aged Saint-Emilion grand cru).
The service was efficient, professional and reassuringly nonchalant. The wine list is obviously extensive with plenty of wines by the glass. However it’s hard to resist ordering a bottle. A waiter will bring a beautiful glass carafe to your table and decant the wine with delightful ceremony.
This is a straightforward, authentic brasserie-style restaurant which scores highly for food, atmosphere and wine list. What more do you want?
