We have all read wine recommendations in the press and they seem harmless enough, if a little bland and repetitive. But when the 'experts' recommend supermarket plonk week after week I think it's fair to challenge the sincerity and validity of the recommendations.
The average wine buyer in the UK is overwhelmed with choice and lacks in-depth knowledge. So when people don't know where to start, wine journalists can wield a fair bit of influence on buying trends. What consumers need is independent, wide-ranging and honest reviews - but this is far from what they get.
Look at the wines that get reviewed week in week out. Without fail they are cheap, mass-produced wines available in supermarkets and chains. The journalists know these wines are dreadful but they also know who funds their profession, so they write them up as "juicy", "quaffable", "lively" etc. The wine industry is dominated by big brands and big retailers and journalism is very much part of the machine.
When I see someone with a Master of Wine qualification recommending a five quid bottle of plonk from Sainsbury's I start to shuffle in my seat. Call me cynical but I suspect they are not actually drinking these wines at home.
Sadly the truly interesting wines imported by independent merchants rarely get a mention. Hedonist Wines is a small business representing small winemakers so that's just the way it is.
Saying that - I was once asked by a well known wine magazine to submit a wine that I import exclusively for a group test. I supplied a photo of the bottle and the price, but assumed my wine wouldn't feature because I didn't have the right vintage and they didn't ask for a sample to taste. The following month my wine appeared. The photo had been edited to show the correct vintage, and despite not supplying a bottle to taste - my wine was highly praised with detailed tasting notes and a score!
It's a funny old game.
www.hedonistwines.co.uk
